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Tahoe’s natural beauty is too majestic to blow through in an automobile, yet small enough to “do,” on a bicycle, especially if you’re “doing,” the North Shore. With more miles of paved and dirt bike trails than highways, it’s got something to offer all levels of riders from kids to pros. Ever try driving around Tahoe in a car during the Fourth of July holiday? That’s no fun – but get on a bike and smile – you’ll be happy you did.

 

 

 

 

Recently, this region has seen major improvements in cycling and safety both major catalysts. A few days ago The Tahoe Fund announced the completion of the new East Shore Trail which runs from Incline Village to Sand Harbor. Whether you’re riding from Truckee to Squaw Valley, down to Tahoe City, to Emerald Bay, or over to Incline and Sand Harbor – it’s as if the North Shore was made for bicycles. Just remember to be super careful when the sun sets low; it can easily impair drivers’ vision.

 

 

The mobility of a bicycle is hard to beat up here. Avoid packed parking lots, escape traffic congestion, pull off at any trailhead, and drop into beaches most visitors don’t even know to exist. On busy weekends, I’ve overtaken many a car on my mountain bike doing the 9.5-mile stretch via Hwy 28 from Tahoe City to Kings Beach. I’m not advocating racing traffic, I’m just illustrating that cycling can be more efficient than driving in a car. If you do cycle, use extra caution when the sun lays low and easily blinds drivers’ vision. This is the time of day when most cars vs. bikes collisions occur.

 

All aboard! The train to Truckee makes getting to the North Shore a cinch via Amtrak’s famous California Zephyr. Regarded as the pinnacle of train travel since 1949, number 6 “choo-choos,” daily between Oakland and Chicago. Bicycles are welcome but must be boxed prior to boarding.

Hungry? After boarding the train, find a seat and check in with the conductor. You are now free to move around. Stroll upstairs and towards the front of the train to the observation car. There’s a small food car directly below where you can get an adult beverage and a hot snack. The fancy dining car is by reservation only and off limits unless you’re doing the “sleep-over.”

To say I enjoyed the journey would be an understatement. Inspiring, transformative, once in a lifetime – those are probably more accurate descriptions. My two-day excursion through the peaks and plains of the great American West was nothing short of incredible. It was also nothing I could have experienced via any route but rail.

 

Colleen Heavens,
Assistant Director of Leadership Communications at The University of Pennsylvania
First Time on the California Zephyr: The Rails Less Traveled

Over Donner and down the hill, the train to Truckee arrives daily around 2:40 p.m. She stops for a few minutes – so be ready to depart on time or you’ll end up in Reno. There’s nothing wrong with Reno, but it ain’t Tahoe, and I’m sticking to the script. On my last trip, I found myself running late on this leg of my journey and literally had to chuck my luggage off the train.

After you depart the train, you’ll be standing behind the
Truckee California Welcome Center; also part of the train depot. The
Truckee Chamber of Commerce staffs the office and they’re always super friendly. Take some time to walk around Truckee – after all, you are now in the heart of her.

The Truckee depot is also a transportation hub where you can easily hail an Uber, Lyft, shuttle or my favorite, the local bus, TART, (Tahoe Area Rapid Transit) From here one may reach all the towns on the North Tahoe.

Ever wonder where the name, “Truckee,” came from? Credit goes to Paiute Chief, “Trukizo,” father of Chief Winnemucca. As the story goes, when the first Europeans appeared, he rode up to them yelling, “Tro-kay!” which translates into “Everything is okay!” The chief later became a guide for John Frémont, but that’s a whole nother story.

Truckee has been known as a sleepy little mountain town for years, but this rustic community has become a destination unto itself with great restaurants and unique boutiques. It’s even listed at the top of the Men’s Journal’s, “The 20 Best Mountain Towns in America.”

North Lake Tahoe is comprised of several towns. Truckee to the North, Tahoe City to the south, and King’s Beach and Incline Village on the east. Homewood is so close and special, I’ve included her, even though technically she’s considered the “West Shore,” aka “The Blessed Shore.” Small towns like Carnelian Bay and Tahoe Vista pepper the shoreline, too. 

My “basecamp,” for the week was Olympic Valley, home of Squaw Valley. The 15-minute bus ride from Truckee includes ample space for all your luggage and can hold up to 3 bikes.

The new transfer station in Tahoe City will take you as far south as Tahoma, and east to Incline Village, all on the same ticket you got in Truckee. It’s a great deal; full-day tickets are good for 24 hours and will run you $3.50 or $1.75 for youth, elderly and disabled.

During mid-summer months, the Night Rider, which I think they should call “The Nightcrawler,” sometimes runs thru 1 a.m. and in fact, I’ve caught this line well after 1 a.m. at Squaw, and made it all the way to my motel at Kings Beach. Anywho, Tart is a great way to get around.

The Truckee River is the only outlet from Lake Tahoe and runs north yeah, north, into the Pyramid Lake – about 60 miles. The famous Lahontan cutthroat trout makes its annual pilgrimage up the river to spawn every fall. Fishing is fairly popular, if not tough, along this bike trail, and easiest to do on a bike.

 

Tahoe City is the most well-known. She’s quaint and easy. There are plenty of dining and shopping options, and of course, action-based rental outfitters including several boat charter companies, (The Tahoe Gal), a paddle wheeler that hosts up to 120 passengers), a couple of nice 50′ sailboats, a parasailing company, and a 9 hole public golf course.

Reach the beach – Commons Beach. Located behind the fire station, this park popular for all the right reasons. The sandy beach reaches up to a nice grassy field, surrounded by picnic/BBQ stations, a playground, amphitheater, and of course bathrooms. The water is shallow for a good distance out making it relatively safe for the small ones. Thursday mornings, a bustling local farmers’ market opens to the public. Sunday afternoons, music lovers flock from miles away for its famous, Concerts at the Beach.

Crystal Bay Casino on the eastern side at Stateline, Nevada is where the gamblers go, and on weekends their Crown Room hosts national, international, and regional talent. Shows often sell out, so if you plan to shake a leg, buy your tickets in advance.

Incline Village is a mile up and around the bend from Crystal Bay. It’s a well-known destination for casual and expert mountain bikers, hikers, kayakers, SUP’ers, and the lot. It also happens to be the home of the world-famous Flume and Tahoe Rim Trail. This single-track MTB trail is recognized by many MTB’rs as one of the top trails in the world for her scenic beauty. But be warned, it’s not easy, but it’s not impossible. Just make sure you’re in decent shape. Even then, you probably will have to walk your bike up the mountain a few times.

If you decide to “do the Flume,” you’ll probably want to get on the local shuttle to one of the popular trailheads. If you have your own MTB, you’re set, but Flume Trail Bikes has you covered in case you need to rent one.

Hikers are welcome and a common sight on the trail. Pack water, snacks, and a fully charged camera. All trails end up at The Tunnel Creek Cafe where you can refuel, relax and grab a cold beverage.

Incline Beach is small so the parking lot fills quickly. Down the road a few miles is one of the most photographed regions, Sand Harbor. It’s much larger but the parking lot also fills quickly; another great reason to ride a bike. Tahoe City to Incline Village is 19 miles, but it’s a great workout; snacking here, swimming there, riding in between, and really getting into Tahoe, literally.

Squaw Valley is a world-class ski resort by winter but has evolved over the last 10 years to become a premier summer destination. Tucked between Truckee and Tahoe City, this Squaw is host to a wide assortment of concerts, pool parties, festivals, kids’ adventure camps, outdoor movies, and a new mountain climbing experience called Ferrata. The Village aka “Basecamp,” is home to an array of restaurants and shopping and as of this writing, they’re promoting 50% off outerwear at participating stores: Parallel Mountain Sports, The North Face, Oakley, The Ledge Boardshop, Patagonia & Estelle Sports.

 

 

 

Located between Truckee and Tahoe City, off Hwy 89 is a full-service bike shop with tons of rentals called Factory Bikes.

Update: Factory Bikes is now, Truckee River Bikes.

Matt Duniho, the owner, dialed me into a super comfy aluminum Giant Sedona that got me everywhere and easily. He also rents power-assist e-bikes, but call me old-fashioned, I prefer 100% human powered bikes. It’s a great place to park and cycle whether you’re going into Squaw Valley or riding The Truckee River Bike Trail into Tahoe City and points beyond.

I’ve eaten at most of the local restaurants around here but for some reason, I hadn’t tried Front Street Station Pizza. As I cruised down Hwy 89 into Tahoe City, it’s the first restaurant you’ll see. There’s a bike rack in front so I pulled into this quaint cabin-style joint and ordered a slice for four bucks and change.

 

I went outside and found a seat on the river. Everything was good, and then my generously-sized pizza came, and it was great. A perfectly baked crust – not too thick, not too thin, crispy on the bottom, and smothered in a delicious red sauce with the right amount of toppings and generous mozzarella. Too many toppings can leave the crust soggy – this was not that. I highly recommend this super casual relaxed “cabin on the river,” joint. From the number of local contractors pulling in at noon ordering Mexican food, they do that well, too.

This place makes legit New York style pizza. In fact, they make the only good NY style pizza I’ve ever eaten in California. It was pretty much perfect.

Teyvon W. via Yelp.com (June 23, 2019)
Orange, CA

For a quick, delicious, and nutritious breakfast, the Dam Cafe is your ticket. Located across from the Tahoe Dam, this small but delicious cafe is a very popular eatery known for their breakfast burritos and sandwiches. Blink and you’ll miss it. Although there is limited seating outside, most people get their orders to-go.

If you’re looking for a menu with more depth and magnificent views of the lake, head south on Hwy 89 about 2 miles – the bike path continues. Sunnyside is one of the most popular restaurants in the area. This lakeside lodge’s offerings range from lobster tail and ahi poke to Petaluma organic roasted chicken and the solid staple, Angus-wagyu hamburger. But hands down, a top favorite is their succulent, “Off The Hook Fish Tacos.”

 

Sunnyside is part of a family of restaurants that includes Dukes, Leilani’s, Kimo’s, and Hula Grill – so you know they bring that Aloha vibe to Tahoe, but they aren’t the only ones.

 

 

In addition to food, Sunnyside has nicely appointed cabin-style rooms and a public dock. They also have a few buoys available at no charge, a fuel station, and a dinghy that will ferry you in – tip that guy!

 

Across the road is Fire Sign Cafe – every local’s favorite for breakfast. It’s kind of a standby when Sunnyside is packed and you just can’t wait to eat. And of all the local restaurants, their Yelp reviews rank the highest with nearly 900 averaging 4.5 stars our of 4.

 

 

This is a great little breakfast/brunch spot. So many of the menu items are made from scratch and it shows in the food. My husband had the chicken fried steak, and I had the best crepe of my life– eggs, spinach, mushrooms, and green onions with an add on of salmon. And they are NOT stingy with the salmon! It was fantastic.

Lauren H.
Concord, CA

Four miles south down Hwy 89 is the quintessential Tahoe boat company and general store, Obexer’s. In the summer months, they roll out their bbq tri-tip station and a Nathan’s Hot Dog cart. Additionally, they serve scooped ice cream. Their menu is limited, (breakfast burritos/bagels/sammies), but everything is par excellence: fresh- made with quality produce and meats.

 

 

Obexer’s big selection of good red and white wines is top-notch. And if you want to water ski, jet ski, or just charter a boat – they got you covered. This year, Obexer’s is home to the famous Concourse de Elegance, held on August 9th and 10th.

One of the most famous taverns on the lake is 3 miles in Tahoma. You won’t see it from the road, and the sign at the parking lot says, “Lakefront Bar & Grill,” but down the path from the lot about 100 yards is Chambers Landing, home of Chambers Punch. On weekends and holidays, the dock fills up and countless boats anchor out. It’s a hot spot if you like to mingle. Later in the evening, it’s a great spot to take a date, catch some live music and good food.

 

 

See Stuff

The Lake Tahoe Dam is the only outlet and therefore, key to maintaining proper lake and water levels which flow into Nevada’s famous Pyramid Lake. Lots of historical records are posted on the windows that include water flows, levels and more dating back to its completion in 1913.

 

 

The iconic “Fanny Bridge,” is just around the bend. Rebuilding began last year as part of a massive revitalization project to improve cyclists’ safety, among other things.

 

 

50 feet across the walk is the Tahoe City Visitor Center where super friendly staff are standing by to help visitors with questions. They have all kinds of stuff you can buy, and it’s actually worth checking out.

 

If you like art – check out the North Tahoe Arts collective, a nonprofit that’s been around since 1985 and features some amazing works by local artists. If you like art, this is a must see. I’m pretty sure everything in the shop is for sale, and there’s a lot to see. They truly have some amazing art; a great place to do some early Christmas or birthday shopping.

 

The next local attraction is the famous Watson Cabin. Built in 1908, this living history museum is only open in the summer and is on the National Register of Historic Places as the oldest log structure remaining in the North Lake Tahoe area. Admission is free, but they also take donations.

 

 

Almost flush to the Watson Cabin is Heritage Plaza. This tiny park has a big heart. You can’t miss “Momma Penny Bear,” a gift from Robert and Lisa Furgeson who created this magnificent piece for Burning Man a few years ago. It took 12 people 4 months to create this masterpiece. This is a great spot to grab a snack and watch the boats come and go. Crave a cigar? Want a cold beverage? Maybe you’re ready for one of the best sammy’s in town. Across the street, you’ll see SiPS – a specialty bottle shop with fine stoggies, a tasting room, and more. Next door is Fat Cats deli/cafe. This fun joint quickly became a favorite, and for good reason – everything is quality, even their live music on weekends.

 

 

Up next, whether you’re hungry or not, is a short downhill cruise to the lake. Moe’s Original BBQ and the famous, “Hawaiian-style,” family-run Jake’s on the Lake are easy to find. Jake’s patio deck is one of the best in all of Tahoe right up there with the likes of Garwoods and Sunnyside.

Tucked in between these restaurants and sharing space are Tahoe Sailing Charters and North Tahoe Watersports. Charter a sunset cruise complete with beverages and appetizers. If it’s more action you seek you can rent a Ski Doo, try parasailing, kayaking, or go SUP’ing courtesy the watersports co.

 

 

At the very edge of town is another boat charter company called North Tahoe Cruises which operates the Tahoe Gal. This vessel is 64 feet long and can carry 120 passengers and crew. They host brunch, lunch, dinner, and even live music cruises.

 

 

Across the street is Basecamp, a new funky-cool motel. Even if you’re not checking in, it’s worth checking out. They have a snappy little beer bar, a unique gift shop, and a very relaxed and inviting vibe. The tip here is to book directly through the lodge, and not a third party, you’ll save money.